North Pennines                       7^th – 9^th May 2004

Leaving at 6.25 am on Friday morning Matt, Keith, Michele and Colin arrived at the picturesque village of Dufton and were heading for the hills by 10.30 am.  This was a sun tan lotion day, though it was due to cloud over from the east later.  Following the Pennine Way we were on Knock Fell by lunchtime.  Here the grass and heather is very short – more like the Cairngorm plateau or tundra than most moorland in England.  However, not too far away rough going was encountered which continued all the way to Blackstone Edge and beyond as we headed for High Cup Nick.

High Cup Nick appeared suddenly and we stood and admired the enormous deep V shaped valley before us.  Dropping down to the lip of the valley we took a break and then followed its edge and the Pennine Way back to Dufton.  The poor weather didn’t materialise so it was a very pleasant afternoon as we drove over the Hartside road to 580 metres and our accommodation beyond at Alston Youth Hostel.  Soon Andrew and Linda arrived and an excellent day was completed with a group meal and a walk into town to a local pub.

The next day was overcast and the air was damp.  Not to be put off however, one vehicle was moved to Garrigill while we all squeezed into the other for the trip to Hartside.  Here it was very glum as quite thick mist greeted us at our starting point.  Setting off into the mist the going soon became heavy as we headed to Fiend’s Fell.  By the time we reached Little Knapside Hill conditions underfoot were easier and there was even the possibility that the mist would lift.  Sadly there were only a few brief views as we continued to Melmerby Fell with its stone cairns called Curricks.  We had already opened a book on how many other people we would see all day.  Guesses varied form 2 – 9.  Wandering over to Meg’s Cairn for a call of nature Linda returned with the amazing news that there was a group of 17 approaching – and just when you didn’t want to see them.  During the rest of the day we only saw two other walkers.

From here to Cross Fell (the highest mountain in England outside of the Lake District) seemed a long way as we followed compass bearings in the mist and used the GPS to check our position.  Eventually we reached the summit cairn and trig point but with nothing to look at we turned onto the Pennine Way and headed on down.  Not far below the summit we visited Greg’s Hut, an MBA bothy which was clear of the mist.  The hut seemed a little damp but a good fire would have put that right.  This is a remote spot and we still had seven miles to go to Garrigill so we set off, passing the miles in conversation and a little wildlife spotting on the way.  Eventually Garrigill was reached and while cars were retrieved Keith and Colin were left behind to pass the time in the pub!  Not a bad day – especially as we didn’t get wet on a day that was due to rain.

Sunday saw Matt and Linda set off in the morning while Andrew, Keith, Michele and Colin were joined by Colin’s friends Trevor and Sue from Weardale.  Meeting at Cow Green Reservoir in Teesdale we all set off for Meldon Hill.  This is reputed to be very rough but we must have selected a good line as the going was not too bad.  Tussocks and heather were replaced by shorter grass and even the overcast conditions improved with some sunshine.  From the top we could see miles and miles of open country and even the Lake District in the distant haze.  Taking a slightly different line down we joined the Pennine Way (again) and returned to Cow Green having enjoyed lots of bird life including Snipe, Redshank, Common Sandpiper, Lapwing, Curlew, Golden Plover and even Black Grouse at nearby Langdon Beck.

A splendid weekend.  Thanks to all who went especially the drivers, and commiserations to all who missed out.

Colin Green